Have you ever wondered why some makeup tutorials make your eyes look smaller, while others seem to open them up beautifully? It all comes down to technique. The right makeup application can create a powerful illusion, making your eyes appear wider, brighter, and more awake. This is especially true if you have naturally close-set eyes or a smaller lid space.
Understanding how to use light and shadow is the key to transforming your eye shape. By strategically placing products and choosing the right colors, you can visually enhance your eyes, making them the star of your look. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from prepping your skin to mastering eyeliner and brow shaping. Get ready to learn the professional secrets for creating the illusion of wider eyes.
Understand Your Eye Shape
Before you pick up a brush, take a moment to look at your eyes in the mirror. Are they close together, far apart, or perfectly spaced? A general rule of thumb is to measure the space between your eyes. If this space is smaller than the width of one of your eyes, you likely have close-set eyes.
Identifying what makes your eyes look narrow is the first step. It could be the spacing, a smaller lid area (hooded eyes), or simply a downward turn at the outer corners. Once you know what you’re working with, you can tailor your makeup techniques to specifically counteract these features and create a more open, elongated look.
Prepping the Eye Area
A flawless makeup application starts with a well-prepped canvas. Proper skin preparation ensures your products glide on smoothly and last all day.
Hydration and Primer
Begin by applying a lightweight eye cream to hydrate the delicate skin around your eyes. This helps plump the area and prevents concealer from settling into fine lines. After the cream has absorbed, apply a thin layer of eyeshadow primer to your eyelids. A primer creates a smooth, even base, intensifies eyeshadow color, and prevents creasing.
Color-Correcting Dark Circles
Dark circles can make eyes appear sunken and smaller. Before applying concealer, use a color corrector to neutralize any discoloration. For bluish or purplish circles, a peach or orange-toned corrector works best. Gently tap the product onto the dark areas with your ring finger or a small brush. This simple step brightens the under-eye area, creating a more awake and open appearance.
Strategic Eyeshadow Placement
Eyeshadow is your most powerful tool for reshaping the eye. The goal is to create a gradient effect, with light shades on the inner part of the eye and darker shades on the outer part.
Light Inner Corners
Applying a light, shimmery eyeshadow or a bright matte shade to the inner corners of your eyes is a classic makeup artist trick. This technique reflects light, instantly making your eyes appear wider and further apart. It’s a small detail that makes a huge difference, especially when doing eye makeup for close-set eyes.
Darker Outer Corners
To visually pull the eyes outward, focus darker eyeshadows on the outer third of your eyelid. Create a “V” shape on the outer corner, connecting the lash line to the crease. This shading adds depth and elongates the eye horizontally.
Use Transition Shades
Blending is crucial for a seamless look. Use a soft, neutral transition shade in your crease to connect the light inner corner and the dark outer corner. A fluffy blending brush and a gentle hand are your best friends here. The soft gradient ensures there are no harsh lines, resulting in a professional and elongated finish.
Eyeliner Techniques for Wider Eyes
Eyeliner can define your eyes, but the wrong technique can make them look smaller. Here’s how to apply it correctly for a widening effect.
Thin Inner Liner
Avoid applying a thick, heavy line of eyeliner across your entire upper lash line, especially near the inner corner. Instead, start your liner about a third of the way from the inner corner, keeping the line as thin as possible. This prevents the inner part of the eye from looking closed off.
Winged Eyeliner
A winged liner is perfect for lifting and elongating the eye. The key is to draw the wing in an upward and outward direction, as if it were extending from your lower lash line. For widening the eyes, a classic, slightly lifted wing or a subtle “kitten eye” works better than a dramatic, thick wing.
White or Nude Waterline
Lining your lower waterline with a dark pencil can make your eyes look smaller. To create the illusion of bigger eyes, use a white or nude eyeliner pencil on your lower waterline. This trick brightens the whites of your eyes, making them appear larger and more open.
Mascara & Lash Techniques
Lashes play a significant role in opening up the eyes. The right application can make all the difference.
Focus on Outer Lashes
When applying mascara, concentrate the product on the lashes at the outer corners of your eyes. Wiggle the wand at the base of these lashes and pull them outward as you apply. This technique helps to fan out the lashes, further elongating the eye shape.
Choose the Right False Lashes
If you enjoy wearing false lashes, opt for styles that are longer on the outer ends, like cat-eye or demi (half) lashes. These styles add volume and length where you need it most, enhancing the eye-opening effect of your makeup.
Curling the Lashes
Never underestimate the power of an eyelash curler. Curling your lashes before applying mascara provides an instant lift, making your eyes look more awake and open. For an extra-strong curl, you can gently warm your eyelash curler with a hairdryer for a few seconds (be sure to test the temperature on your wrist first).
Brow Shaping to Open the Eyes
Your eyebrows frame your eyes, so their shape and placement are incredibly important. Well-groomed brows can lift your entire face.
Make sure your brows have a defined arch, as this creates more space between your brow and your eye, giving the illusion of a bigger eye area. Also, pay attention to the space between your brows. Brows that are too close together can emphasize close-set eyes. Ensure the beginning of your brow aligns with the side of your nostril.
Highlighting & Concealing Techniques
Strategic highlighting and concealing can further enhance the illusion of wider eyes. Apply a matte or shimmery highlighter just below your brow arch to lift the brow bone. A dab of shimmer in the center of your eyelid can also make your eyes pop.
Use concealer not just to cover dark circles but also to brighten. Apply it in a triangular shape under your eyes, with the point of the triangle aiming down toward your cheek. This technique brightens the entire central part of your face, drawing attention upward and outward.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Over-darkening inner corners: This is the most common mistake when it comes to eye makeup for close-set eyes, as it makes them appear even closer.
- Heavy lower liner: A dark, thick line on the lower lash line can close off the eye and make it look smaller.
- Thick eyeliner across the lid: A uniform, thick line from the inner to the outer corner can make the eyelid look heavy and small.
Create Your Signature Look
Creating the illusion of wider eyes is all about practice and finding what works for you. Start with neutral colors like beiges, soft browns, and champagnes, as they are forgiving and easy to work with. Once you feel more confident, you can experiment with different color combinations.
For a quick daily routine, focus on the key steps: brighten the inner corner, add a touch of depth to the outer corner, apply a winged liner, curl your lashes with mascara focused on the outer corners, and line your waterline with a nude pencil. With these techniques, you’ll be able to enhance your natural beauty and create a stunning, eye-opening look every time.
